Herding Canada

How does a person get started in herding?

Today, even "city" dogs and owners can learn to herd and trial competively if they want to. The first task is finding a trainer, that you and your dog work well with. If you haven't already had your dog insticted tested, you might want to start there first, to see if herding is right for you and your dog.

Does a dog need any obedience training?

DEFINATLY! The very basic one that you need a recall (come to you) and some sort of a "stop", be it a "lie down", "sit", or "wait" (standing stop). Usually, a dog will forget that they know these commands the first couple times out, but it is important that the dog is quite clear on who is running the "game".. You, the handler.

Is there any special equipment?

No overly special equipment is needed. The basics are a flat buckle collar, and leash (not a flexi lead!). You will also need some kind of a stock stick, generally a lightweight plastic rake is used in the begining, as it offers more of a physical block. The stock stick or rake is not used to hit the dog, hit the sheep or your trainer! It is not used to point where the dog is supposed to go to, rather think of it as an extenstion of your arm, that you use to "block" the dog from the direction you don't want him going.

"Blocking" is applying pressure, if the dog is coming around to your left, and you hold the rake in front of him, he will have to change direction, even if its just a little bit to avoid the rake. Although there are some dogs, that will "bust" through anyways, but keep at it. Eventually you and they will get the hang of it. Think of it as protecting the stock.

Speaking of stock, the best ones to start out on are well dog broke sheep. These are sheep that are accustomed to being worked by dogs, and are trained (or rather they've learned) that they are safe when they are with the handler. It is your job to keep the sheep's faith that you will protect them. If the sheep are coming very fast right towards you, bend your knees, this will prevent you (hopefully) fron getting knocked down...Of course, as your dog progesses in his training, you'll notice that the sheep won't be barrelling towards you (or rather, away from the dog) as the dog learns some self control when it comes to his speed.

While there is some varience to the herding commands from trainer to trainer, they pretty much have the same meaning.

Herding Commands:

1. That'll Do

   The dog is to stop whatever it is that they are doing, and come to the handler immediately.

2. Come-Bye, Go-Bye

   This is a directional command, meaning that the dog is to a "clockwise" direction around the sheep. Some trainers use "come-bye" while fetching (ie: sending their dog on a outrun), and "go-bye" when they are driving, or working on inside flanks.

3. Away, Away-to-me

   This is the other directional command, this time going "counter clockwise"

4. There

   Stop there, and turn directly toward the sheep, sometimes combined with another command, like, "there, walk up" or "there, lie-down". It to let the dog know, that he's currently in the position that he needs to be in.

5. Walk Up

   To walk closer to the stock.

6. Steady, Take Time

   Slow down, you have much more control over the stock when they are calm, and rushing only panics them.

7. Lie-Down

   Just what it says.. The dog needs to lie down.

8. Wait, Stop

   Generally a standing stop.

Herding Terminolgy:

1. Outrun

   The Outrun is the first part of a "gather". This is when the dog leaves the handler (or starting point), and runs "out" of the stock's flight zone. Ideally, this is in a "pear-shaped" arc. A "blind outrun" is when the dog cannot see the stock (such as if the field is large, or there is alot of brush, trees or other physical "blind spots").

2. Lift

   The lift is the second part of the "gather". The lift occurs the moment the stock notice the dog. The start of the lift is when the stock's heads rise up from grazing and or turn towards the oncoming dog, and the end of the lift is when they stock take their first step. It is important that the lift is calm, otherwise you can end up with stock that split and go all over the place.

3. Fetch

   This is not only the last part of the "gather" but is also whenever the dog is bringing you stock. The fetch should NOT be fast and furious, with the stock running hell-bent for leather straight towards you. It should be steady with the dog bringing you the stock at a controlled calm pace. Often the "lift" will determind what kind of "fetch" you'll have.. If the lift if fast, the stock usually will panic, and bolt. If the lift is calm, the generally the fetch will be calm as well.

4. Drive

   This is when the dog is moving the stock away from the handler. Don't confuse a dog chasing stock away from you as a drive... A dog should only walk or be in a slow trot while driving.. The dog's position will be between you and the stock.

5. Holding A Line

   This is when a dog that is driving stock is able to keep the stock "on line" to go from point A to point B without the stock going all over the place... A good driving dog will read the stock, and alter his position to keep the stock "on line".

6. Flanking

   When the dog moves from one side to the other in order to change the direction of the stock. Usual commands for this is Come Bye and Away (Away To Me), however a dog should be able to flank on their own when "holding a line" or keeping "balance".
   Inside Flanks are when the dog is "asked" to come between the handler and stock, generally used in driving.
   Square flanks are when the dogs turns 90 degrees away from the direction the dog is standing or moving. This causes the dog to release some of the pressure on the stock, and will also help prevent the dog from moving directly into the stock to turn them (aka, busting in).

7. Balance

   The act or ability to find the exact spot that the dog needs to be to get the stock to where they are supposed to go. Balence incorporates alot of things, speed of the dog, the stock's flight zone, pressure (both from the dog and the surroundings, ie: fencelines etc), and draws.
   If, there was no pressure or draws, and the handler is "fetching" stock, then if the handler was in the 12 o'clock position and the stock in the middle of the clock, balence (and the dog) would be at the 6 o'clock position. The balence point is constantly changing.

8. Grip

   An appropiate "grip" is a quick bite and release on the heel or the nose to move stubborn stock. An unappropriate grip is a bite and hang on, a bite anywhere other then the heel or nose, or when it is not nessary. Gripping will usually earn a "thank you" from a judge at a trial, especially on sheep and ducks.

9. Pressure

   Pressure is alot of things. It can either be physical or psychological, and not only is the stock affected, but the dog is affected as well..
   Physical pressure is caused by things such as fences, a dog, the handler etc. Psychological pressure is things like that scary stock trailer, the amount of eye the dog has, the amount of presence the handler has over the dog. Quite often, the psychological pressure has to do with physical pressure. The effects of pressure also varies. Stock that are being pressured by a dog may split, or bolt, dogs that are feeling pressure from fences while doing tight pen work, may loose their confidence and grip, or even "quit". I tend to think of pressure like a magnetic field... Something is either pushing or pulling, and it is you as a handler to figure out where the pressure points are at that particular time.

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